The Colorado Winter Watering Guide: Yes, Your Trees Are Thirsty!

It seems counterintuitive, doesn’t it? Snow covers your landscape, temperatures hover near freezing, and your trees appear dormant and peaceful. Surely they don’t need water during winter, right?

Wrong. Dead wrong.

Here’s a painful truth that Colorado Springs homeowners learn the hard way every spring: more trees die from winter drought than from almost any other cause. Those beautiful evergreens you invested hundreds or thousands of dollars in? They’re slowly desiccating through December, January, and February. That ornamental tree you planted last spring? Its roots are struggling to survive beneath frozen soil. And you won’t realize there’s a problem until May, when brown needles and dead branches appear, by which point it’s too late.

At Fredell Enterprises, we’ve seen this heartbreaking scenario play out countless times. A homeowner invests in quality landscaping, assumes winter means they can forget about maintenance, and then faces devastating losses when spring arrives. The good news? Winter tree death is almost entirely preventable with proper dormant season watering.

This guide will teach you everything you need to know about winter watering in Colorado Springs: when to do it, how to do it correctly, which plants need it most, and why this simple maintenance task can save you thousands of dollars in replacement costs.

Let’s address the most persistent and damaging misconception about Colorado winters: the belief that snow provides adequate moisture for your landscape.

Colorado’s snow is notoriously “dry”—it has exceptionally low water content compared to snow in humid climates. That fluffy, powdery snow we love for skiing? It might contain only 5-10% water by volume. In contrast, “wet” snow in coastal regions can have 20% or more water content. This means that even several inches of Colorado snow translates to very little actual moisture.

Even more problematic, frozen ground prevents what little snowmelt does occur from reaching tree roots where it’s needed. When the ground freezes solid, which happens regularly during our cold snaps, water simply cannot penetrate. It runs off, evaporates, or refreezes before soaking in.

Add in our infamous Chinook winds, which bring warm, dry air blasting across the Front Range, and you have a perfect recipe for desiccation. These winds can evaporate moisture from tree tissues faster than the frozen roots can replace it.

One of the cruelest aspects of winter drought damage is its delayed visibility. This is what landscape professionals call the “brown evergreen” phenomenon, and it catches homeowners completely off guard.

Here’s what happens: During winter, evergreen trees continue losing moisture through their needles even though they’re dormant. This process, called transpiration, happens all year long for evergreens; it just slows down in winter. When the ground is frozen, roots cannot absorb replacement moisture. The tree slowly dehydrates throughout the winter months.

But here’s the deceptive part: the tree still looks perfectly healthy. The needles remain green through December, January, February, and even into early spring. Then, as temperatures warm and the tree tries to resume active growth, there’s suddenly catastrophic failure. The tree realizes it’s been running on empty for months. By April or May, you wake up to find your once-beautiful blue spruce or pine has turned entirely brown.

At that point, the tree is dead or dying, and there’s nothing that can be done. The damage occurred in December and January—you’re just seeing the results months later.

This same process affects deciduous trees, too, though it’s less visible. Their roots need moisture throughout winter to remain healthy. Winter-drought-stressed trees leaf out poorly in spring, show dieback in branches, and become vulnerable to disease and pest infestations.

To make winter watering simple and effective, follow what we call the “40-40-40” rule. When all three conditions align, it’s time to water:

• Temperature Above 40°F: Check the forecast for days when afternoon temperatures will reach at least 40 degrees. These warmer winter days are ideal for watering. Water can soak into the ground without immediately freezing, and trees can actually absorb the moisture.
• 40+ Days Since Last Watering or Significant Moisture: If it’s been more than 40 days since your trees received substantial moisture (either from you watering or from significant precipitation), they need water. During typical Colorado Springs winters, this means you should plan to water at least once per month, possibly more during particularly dry stretches.
• Wind Below 40 MPH: High winds evaporate water before it can soak in and make watering inefficient. Wait for calmer days to ensure your efforts aren’t wasted.
• Bonus tip: Water early enough in the afternoon that moisture has time to soak in before temperatures drop and the ground refreezes overnight. Typically, this means watering between 10 AM and 2 PM on suitable days.

Mark these opportunities on your calendar. We typically get several ideal watering windows each month during Colorado Springs winters: those pleasant, sunny days where it feels like a preview of spring. Instead of just enjoying the weather, spend 30 minutes to an hour giving your trees the moisture they desperately need.

Not every plant in your landscape requires the same level of winter attention. Prioritize your efforts on these high-need categories:

Any tree or shrub planted within the last three years should be your top priority. These plants haven’t established extensive root systems yet. Their roots remain relatively shallow and concentrated, making them extremely vulnerable to drought stress.

If you installed new landscaping this past spring or summer, those plants are fighting for survival through their first Colorado winter. They need regular winter watering to make it through. The first winter is absolutely critical—survival often depends on adequate moisture.

All evergreens (pines, spruces, junipers, arborvitae, yews) continue losing moisture through their needles throughout winter. They never go fully dormant the way deciduous trees do. This constant moisture loss makes them particularly vulnerable to winter drought.

Pay special attention to:

• Blue spruce, which is notoriously susceptible to winter desiccation
• Austrian and ponderosa pines, which show similar vulnerability
• Arborvitae and other ornamental evergreens, especially those in exposed locations
• Broadleaf evergreens like holly or mahonia, which lose moisture through their leaves

Certain tree species naturally develop shallow root systems that feel drought stress more acutely:

• Birch trees are beautiful but extremely drought-sensitive with shallow roots
• Dogwoods struggle without consistent moisture
• Japanese maples need regular winter watering, especially in exposed sites
• Fruit trees (apples, cherries, plums) benefit significantly from winter watering

Trees planted on south or west-facing slopes, in open areas without windbreaks, or in locations that receive intense sun exposure face additional stress. These sites dry out faster and experience more extreme temperature fluctuations.

Areas protected from precipitation by structures often become severely dry. Trees planted near foundations, under eaves, or in courtyards may receive little to no moisture from snow or rain. These locations require deliberate winter watering.

Winter watering isn’t as simple as running out with a hose and spraying for a few minutes. Done incorrectly, you’re wasting time and water without helping your trees. Here’s how to do it right:

The “drip line” is an imaginary circle on the ground directly below the outer edge of a tree’s branches. This is where most of a tree’s feeder roots are located—the roots that actually absorb water and nutrients.

Watering at the trunk accomplishes almost nothing. Mature bark doesn’t absorb water, and there are few active roots immediately adjacent to the trunk. Instead, focus your watering efforts in a circular band around the drip line.

For young trees with small canopies, water in a circle extending at least 3-4 feet from the trunk in all directions.

Quick, shallow watering is virtually useless. Water needs to penetrate 12-18 inches deep into the soil to reach the root zone where it matters. This requires slow application over an extended period.

• Soaker hoses are ideal for winter watering. Lay them in a circle around the drip line and let them run for 30-60 minutes (depending on soil type and tree size). The slow drip allows water to penetrate deeply without runoff.
• Tree watering bags (like Treegator bags) wrap around the trunk and slowly release water over several hours. These are excellent for newly planted trees.
• Bucket method: If you don’t have a soaker hose, fill a 5-gallon bucket, poke several small holes in the bottom, and place it near the tree. Refill 2-3 times, moving the bucket to different locations around the drip line. This ensures slow, deep penetration.
• Garden hose on trickle: Set your hose to a very slow trickle—barely flowing—and move it around the drip line every 20-30 minutes. This works but requires more attention than soaker hoses.

The amount varies by tree size:

• Young trees (1-3 years): 10-15 gallons per watering session
• Medium trees (4-10 years): 15-25 gallons per watering session
• Mature trees: 25-30+ gallons per watering session

These amounts should soak in over 30-90 minutes, not be applied all at once.

Before watering, check whether moisture is actually needed. Dig down 4-6 inches with a trowel in several locations around the tree. If the soil is moist, skip watering for now. If it’s dry and crumbly, water thoroughly. This prevents overwatering, which can cause its own problems (though winter overwatering is much less common than under-watering in Colorado).

If the ground is frozen solid, wait. Water cannot penetrate frozen soil—it will simply run off or pool on the surface and freeze. Wait for a thaw when the ground softens. However, ground that’s cold but not frozen hard can still absorb water. Use your judgment based on whether you can easily insert a trowel into the soil.

While we’re discussing winter tree care, it’s essential to mention mulch. A 3-4 inch layer of organic mulch (wood chips, shredded bark) around your trees acts as insulation, helping retain moisture in the soil and moderating soil temperature fluctuations.

Proper mulching reduces winter watering needs and protects roots from extreme cold. Think of it as a blanket that keeps moisture from evaporating and prevents the soil from freezing as deeply.

Mulching guidelines:

• Apply 3-4 inches deep in a circle extending to the drip line
• Keep mulch 3-6 inches away from the trunk (no “mulch volcanoes”)
• Refresh mulch annually as it decomposes
• Apply or refresh mulch in fall before winter arrives

If you didn’t mulch this past fall, it’s not too late. During a mild spell, add mulch around your trees for the remainder of winter.

Let’s talk economics. A mature tree can cost $500 to $2,000 or more to replace, not including removal of the dead tree, which adds hundreds more. Large specimen evergreens can cost even more. If you’ve invested in quality landscaping, you have thousands of dollars’ worth of trees on your property.

Winter watering is insurance against loss. Spending 30-60 minutes once or twice per month with a hose and soaker costs you essentially nothing—just time and the minimal expense of water (usually under $5 per watering session based on typical municipal rates).

Compare that minimal investment to the cost of replacing multiple dead trees in June. The math is obvious.

Beyond the direct financial cost, consider the intangible losses: years of growth and shade that take decades to replace, the beauty and curb appeal that mature trees provide, the privacy screening that landscaping offers, and the emotional attachment to trees you’ve nurtured.

Winter watering isn’t optional maintenance for “overachievers”. It’s essential care that protects your landscape investment. Think of it as paying a tiny insurance premium to protect an asset worth thousands.

Here’s a practical framework for incorporating winter watering into your routine:

• November through March are the critical months for winter watering in Colorado Springs.
• Watch the forecast weekly. When you see a stretch of warmer days (40°F+) approaching, plan your watering session.
• Set calendar reminders to check your trees every 30-40 days. If you haven’t had significant precipitation and you’ve missed ideal watering windows, make the effort to water even if conditions aren’t perfect.
• Keep equipment ready: Store soaker hoses or tree watering bags somewhere accessible. If they’re buried in the garage, you’re less likely to use them.
• Make it a routine: Pair winter watering with other outdoor tasks. If you’re clearing snow from the driveway or walkways, check your trees while you’re outside.

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, or if you’re just learning about winter watering now, trees show stress symptoms:

• Brown or bronze needles on evergreens in late winter or early spring
• Curling or dried needles that feel brittle
• Branch dieback where tips turn brown
• Delayed or sparse leaf-out on deciduous trees in spring
• Smaller or yellowing leaves when they do emerge
• Cracking bark from desiccation stress

If you notice these symptoms, water immediately and consistently, even if it’s early spring. Sometimes you can save a stressed tree with aggressive watering, though severe damage may be irreversible.

Colorado Springs encompasses diverse microclimates that affect watering needs:

• Foothill locations with higher elevations experience colder temperatures and different precipitation patterns. Trees here may need more frequent winter attention.
• South-facing slopes receive intense sun and dry out faster. Increase watering frequency for trees in these locations.
• Protected valley areas may retain more moisture. Monitor soil conditions to avoid overwatering.
• Urban heat island effects in developed areas can create drier conditions than surrounding areas.

Adjust your watering based on your specific location and observe how your property’s microclimate behaves through winter.

Your trees are living investments that increase property value, provide shade and beauty, and take years or even decades to reach maturity. Letting them die from preventable winter drought is a tragedy that’s entirely avoidable.

Yes, winter watering requires effort. It means paying attention to the weather, going outside when it’s cold, and taking time for maintenance that shows no immediate visible benefit. But come May and June, when your neighbor’s evergreens are turning brown, and yours remain vibrant and healthy, you’ll be glad you made the effort.

When your newly planted trees thrive through their first winter and establish strong root systems for years to come, you’ll appreciate the time invested. When you avoid the expense and heartbreak of removing dead trees and starting over, you’ll understand why winter watering is essential, not optional.

Colorado’s dry, windy winters are tough on trees, but armed with knowledge and a commitment to dormant season watering, you can protect everything you’ve invested in your landscape. Your trees are thirsty this winter. Give them the drink they need.

Ready to develop a comprehensive winter maintenance plan for your Colorado Springs landscape? Contact Fredell Enterprises today, and let’s ensure your trees thrive through every season.